the foodies handbook

Traditionally a hearty meal for Cornish tin miners and their families, but just as handy today for picnics or meals on the move. Made at home the Cornish pasty was the perfect packed lunch, with each family having their own recipe, often making variations for each family member. Each pasty would be marked the initials of the intended recipient. The basic ingredients remain essentially the same, braising steak, onion, potato and swede. The balance of meat to vegetables was dictated by economics, more steak when times were good or all vegetable when times were hard.

Make the pastry first by seasoning the flour and sifting it into a large bowl. Dice the butter and lard then rub them into the flour using your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Sprinkle with 6-7 tablespoons of chilled water, just enough to bind the dough. Draw the mixture together with a palette knife. Turn onto a floured work surface, knead gently to bring together then wrap with clingfilm and chill for an hour in the fridge. Divide the pastry into 4 equal pieces and roll each one out on a lightly floured work surface using short sharp strokes, always rolling in one direction. Give the pastry a quarter-turn, then roll it again to form a round about 20cm in diameter and about ½cm thick. Cut into a circle using a plate as a guide. Reserve the trimmings to make pastry initials, if you wish. Cover with clingfilm and allow to rest. Meanwhile trim the beef and dice into 1cm cubes. Prepare the onion, potato and swede and again cut into 1cm dice. Add all the ingredients to a hot pan and quickly dry fry until tender. Add a little olive oil if you think it is needed. Add a little wholegrain mustard and season with the salt and pepper. Divide the ingredients into 4 and arrange along the centre of each pastry circle. Lightly brush the edge of the pastry with water then carefully bring up the edges to the centre to cover the filling. Pinch or crimp between the forefinger and thumb of one hand and forefinger of the other to create a sealed crest over the top of the pasty. Add your initials cut from the trimmings. Repeat with the other pastry circles. Place on a baking sheet and chill for 30 minutes. Preheat an oven to 180°C, gas mark 4. Brush the pasties with beaten egg yolk and cook for about an hour until the pastry is golden and the filling cooked through. Serve warm or cold with watercress and a quality rhubarb chutney.