the foodies handbook

Clostridium Perfringens Is a food poisoning bacteria also known as Clostridium Welchii. As common as Salmonella, especially in large scale catering establishments and canteens. Often found in beef and meat pies the spores can survive cooking temperatures and multiply during the cooling process. It is anaerobic, oxygen destroys the bacteria, so is often found deep with in a sauce, stew or soup. The bacteria is rod shaped, no flagella, surrounded by a capsule of jelly. It produces heat-resistant spores. 100 000 spores per gram of food is a dangerous does. It is always present in soil, a large proportion of meat and poultry is contaminated and about 2% of the population carry the bacteria in the gut. The disease produced is neither infective food poisoning nor toxic food poisoning, but half way between the two. The bacteria do not produce toxin within the food. When Clostridium Perfringens is ingested it produces spores in the intestine. The spore is coated with a toxin that irritates the gut and makes you feel ill. It prefers higher temperatures, the optimum being 46 degrees. It grows very fast, doubling every 10 minuets. It can survive bellow 15 or above 60 degrees. It produces a gas as it grows, tiny bubbles may be seen in standing stews or soups, containers may swell. The symptoms are severe abdominal pain and diarrhoea, lasting between 12-14 hours. Victims become carriers, with 50-80% still infected by the spores after 2 weeks. The rapid and through cooling of food, and effective reheating will reduce the possibility of infection. Food held for service must not fall bellow 75 degrees centergrade.Ortolan This is a small brown songbird native to Asia and Europe, traditionally eaten as a delicacy in France. The wild bird is caught using a large net, its eyes are then poked out before being placed into a small cadge. They are forced fed with millet and oats until four times the natural size, killed by being drowned in Armagnac and then roasted. Eaten whole, its bones lacerating the gums so allowing blood to blend with the birds fat and bitter tasting guts. The eating of Ortolan is regarded as offensive, so traditionally it is consumed with a cloth napkin placed over the head covering the face and mouth. This is said to heighten the gastronomic experience.

Filo A distinctive Middle Eastern pastry consisting of extremely slim sheets of crisp dough, resembling thin transparent paper squares. Usually used in several layers, each buttered to ensure a crisp and even pastry and either baked or fried. Popular in Greek and oriental cookery, and suitable for both sweet and savoury fillings. The dough is almost fat free, and when cooked without additional oil or butter is dry and brittle. It may be moulded into ornamental shapes or pastry cups and used to hold fruits or ice cream. It is brushed with melted butter and layered with chopped nuts and an apricot syrup to produce the classic Greek dessert ‘baklava’. It is extremely versatile and may also be layered with olive oil, dried herbs, aubergines, courgette and sun dried tomatoes to produce a savoury slice. To produce filo pastry take 400g of plain flour, 1tsp of salt, 2tbs of olive oil, 125ml of warm water and cornflour for dusting. Sieve the flour, corn flour and salt into a bowl. Gradually add the water, blending until a stiff dough is formed. You may not have to use all of the water, this depends on the quality of the flour used. Place a little of the olive oil onto the hands, and knead the dough on a work surface until a smooth elastic dough is achieved. Brush with a little oil and allow to rest in a bowl covered with a damp cloth for 2 hours. Cut the dough into 10 equal amounts. Dust the work surface with cornflour, and roll each piece to a ¼ inch thickness. Cover with a cloth and allow to rest covered with a damp cloth. Using the palms of the hand stretch the dough until it is as thin as tissue paper. Derived from the Greek word phullo meaning ‘leaf’. Sometimes referred to as ‘phyllo pastry’.

Menu Planning When composing a menu it is important to consider the occasion for which it is intended, those who will be eating it and the environment in which it is to be consumed. Menus should be simple and direct, avoid using pompous terms and complicated descriptions and never create new terms or names to describe existing dishes. Use terms and phrases that are appropriate to the foods being offered. Never use French terms on an Italian menu, ’Carbonara a la Roma’ for example. Never use unnecessary words to explain dishes, a lemon sorbet does not need to be described as ‘deep frozen’. Avoid using the same variety of vegetable garnish twice on the same menu and never repeat variaties of meat, fish, poultry or game. Avoid using sauces of the same colour on the same menu. Do not repeat sauces, using them with more than one dish is a common mistake. Starters should be simple and small, many consist of main course samples but this is best avoided. Frequently evening starters form part of a light lunch or bistro menu. Small appetisers and tapas are now commonly used as starter courses, with many restaurants using the opportunity of a separate lunch menu as a way of advertising the more substantial evening options. When offering a cheese course it is not necessary to

name the individual varieties of cheeses used, or the types of fruits and crackers being served as accompaniments. It is worth remembering when compiling a menu to ensure that all the required produce is available, that vegetables and game are in season for instance. It is important to note that fresh fish is not always easily obtainable, with only the fish caught on a particular day being landed. Avoid stipulating wild varieties of fish on a regular menu, or one drawn up well in advance as they may not be accessible on the day required. The menu should be clear and precise, never use complicated script or irrelevant illustrations. Keep the menu concise and preferably on one or two pages at most. Restaurant dessert and wine lists may be provided on separate pages, this can improve presentation and allows customers to be reminded of available sweets after the main meal has been eaten.

Michelin Guide These are a series of guide books published annually by Michelin and covering several countries. A term is usually used to indicate the Michelin ‘Red Guide’, the oldest and best-known hotel and restaurant guide. It is this book which awards the famous ‘Michelin stars’. Michelin also publishes the ‘Green Guides’ for travel and tourism, as well as several newer publications such as the Guide Voyageur Pratique (independent travel), Guide Gourmand (good-value eating-places), Guide Escapade (quick breaks) and Guide Coup de Cœur (hotels of character). First published in 1900 by André Michelin as a guide to France, aiding drivers to maintain cars, find decent lodging, and to eat well while touring. It included the addresses of gasoline distributors, garages, tire stockists, as well as information on prices, changing tires and car maintenance. Distributed free until 1920 when a charge was introduced after a pile of guides were found propping up a workbench in a French garage. The Michelin family decided that a free book would not be taken seriously. A single star system was introduced in 1926 to recognise good quality cooking, with two and three star ratings being added in the early 1930s. The cover of the guide was originally blue, but has been red since 1931. As motoring became more popular and widespread, the star system was developed further and guides to other countries were introduced. Today a series of twelve guides list more than 45,000 hotels and restaurants across Europe, and the guide to France has sold 30 million copies since it was first introduced. There are now Red Guides covering France, Austria, Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg, Italy, Germany, Spain, Portugal, Switzerland, and the UK and Ireland. The guide covering France is still the most thorough.